Ask us about the wildlife we’ve seen on our travels this fall, and the list is quite lengthy. From chipmunks to crows, squirrels to seagulls, not just these ordinary critters, but some extraordinary ones.

Driving down the highway in Newfoundland, we passed beneath an eagle. He was surfing the air above the road. A bear ambled from the shoulder into the woods. In Nova Scotia, a ring-necked pheasant strutted in the ditch beside the road, its jewel-toned plumage startlingly vivid against past-its-prime fall foliage.

In some places, we were overwhelmed by the sheer number of birds. On a chilly Quebec morning, we watched — and listened to — enormous flocks of snow geese migrating down the Saint Lawrence. Cape Saint Mary’s, in Newfoundland, was even more dramatic. There, Barry and I sat alone at sunset, about 60 feet from a huge sea stack, the nesting place of thousands of northern gannets. Youngsters, their dark speckled feathers matching the white-stained black rock, stretched their wings and practiced flying. Adults took off for brief flights — when they returned, couples would “fence” with their beaks, sort of a “Honey, I’m back” greeting. We watched them until it grew too dark to see.

And of course, there are the moose. We’d been warned numerous times not to drive at night, when they are most active. “My son hit one last year,” an older fellow on the ferry told me. “Put its head right through the windshield. On the passenger side, though, so nobody got hurt.” Even the moose, evidently, who walked away unscathed.

Moose are not native to Newfoundland. In the end of the 19th century, someone introduced a couple of them. In the beginning of the 20th century, somebody added about four more. Now there are thousands and thousands, all descended from that original six.

Even restricting our driving to daylight hours, we have seen a few of them. In Maine and Newfoundland, we saw mama cows with calves, gangling oversized creatures. And an occasional solo moose grazing by the roadside. They are impressive, massive animals, weighing up to 1000 pounds.

But on the Gaspe peninsula, there was another kind of moose, and we saw dozens of them. Legs splayed out, head hanging over the edge: Dead moose in the back of a pickup truck. We had arrived at the height of hunting season.

It’s an eerie sight, these huge animals brought down with a gun and winched into the back of a truck. Hearing stories about them walking away after totaling a car makes me think of them as invincible, and I half expect them to shake themselves and jump out of the back of the truck, “You think you can kill me? Ha!” Their dead faces look surprised, as if their last thought was, “Oops! I forgot it was hunting season!”

The eeriest part is what the local hunters do with the heads: They mount them on the grill or hood of the truck as a grisly, lifelike trophy. One car had two heads, one on the grill and one on the hood. I guess it’s their way of getting back at the moose. Instead of worrying about a moose crossing the road and totaling your car, all you have to worry about is the one coming behind you, in your rear view mirror.

In a recent e-mail, a friend asked us whether they celebrate Halloween up here. As we drove through Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and Quebec, we were overwhelmed with the evidence that they do. Some towns sponsor interesting competitions, like the artistic scarecrows in Mahone Bay (we photographed dozens of them).

In Kentville, we drove for miles enjoying displays of “pumpkin-head people.” The theme of this year’s competition was “sports,” and around every bend we found football, soccer, and basketball teams, pumpkin-head skiiers, archers, badminton-players, and weightlifters. I think our favorite was the pumpkin-head scuba diver!

But aside from these organized events, there are hundreds of decorated houses, with witches, ghosts, and spiders. Some people go crazy, filling their yards with tombstones or their porches with spiderwebs. Inflated pumpkins and Frankensteins are all the rage. Depending on which part of Canada you are in, the banners read either “Happy” or “Joyeaux” Halloween.

In Lunenburg, evidently, setting prank fires used to be the favorite activity on Halloween. The fire departments stayed busy, but nothing really dreadful happened, until about ten years ago. Then they burned down St. John’s Anglican church — the second oldest church in all of Canada. Now October is “fire prevention month,” and they take the pranks a lot more seriously. It’s rumored that you can be arrested for lighting a match on Halloween!

Here are some of our favorite Halloween decorations. Enjoy, and don’t let the ghoulies get you!

Laid-back decorations in Montreal…

Dangling pumpkins in Quebec…

The dance of the eight veils…

Lifelike scarecrows…

Harry Potter and friends…

Outrageous yard display…

Dinghy scarecrows!

“Whosoever pulls the sword from this pumpkin shall be the true king of Mahone Bay.”

When I was a child, they taught plate tectonics in grade school. Looking at a world map, it made perfect sense. You could see that the hump of South America would tuck perfectly into that indentation in Africa’s west coast. It just took a little imagination.

A couple of weeks ago, my father told me that in the early 1970’s, he read of plate tectonics for the first time. It was in a science magazine, and the article was illustrated with crude drawings, but he was fascinated by the new theory.

I was flabbergasted by his revelation. When you are a child in school, you never stop to think that what you are learning about the world might be different from what your parents learned. Puzzled, I asked my Dad, “What did they teach in school before plate tectonics? Where did they say the mountains came from?”

Traveling through Newfoundland and the Gaspe peninsula, we have had a chance to see the results of plate tectonics, in all three dimensions. In museums, we read exhibits and studied diagrams. Dad was the resident expert, having read John McPhee’s “Annals of a Former World.” He mentioned it often, and Barry and I got used to hearing him begin sentences with, “McFee says…”

The best illustration was the guided hike we took at Gros Morne, with a guide named Fred. Using human volunteers, he illustrated how the continents came together and moved apart several times, bouncing off each other like very slow bocce balls. I starred as Laurentia. My counterpart, Gondwana, slid a rock up my arm until it reached the top of my head, a very tall mountain indeed, formed of old rock from far beneath the surface.

We were walking on the Tablelands, an eerie moonscape-like scene. The ground was a jumble of rust-colored peridotite — not just any rock, but the earth’s very mantle, normally found miles beneath your feet. Little grew there, because the earth’s mantle contains toxic levels of chromium and magnesium. Not exactly fertile ground for farming. But fertile for the imagination.

Later, bundled in hats and gloves, we stood on the bow of a tour boat, imagining massive glaciers thousands of feet thick. The glaciers carved this lake, formerly a fjord, and smaller, tributary glaciers carved the distinctive U-shaped hanging valleys above us. The glaciers were so heavy that they compressed the land, allowing the ocean to flow in when they melted. When the land sprang back — a fast word for a slow process — the ocean was cut off, and the fjord became a landlocked lake.

The three of us strolled along a boardwalk in Cox’s Cove, admiring the view of the water. Then we came upon a steep, ladder-like staircase and followed it down to the rocky beach. What started as a short stroll turned into an orgy of rock hunting. One rock was black, with a white peace symbol in the middle. Dad and I fought over that one. “Hey! This one looks just like an oreo with a couple of bites taken out of it!” We snatched them up, greedily, dropping them as we found even more spectacular specimens. Our pockets were bulging, weighing us down as we climbed the steep steps to the van.

In the U.S., we are used to thinking of the Appalachians as an inland place, far from the ocean. But driving along the Gaspe peninsula, they go right down into the ocean. And then come up on the other side, in Newfoundland — Cox’s Cove, and similar places.

Looking at these ribbons of rock, swirled and tilted sideways, is like looking at a layer cake that got dropped on its side. It was laid down in a nice, orderly horizontal fashion. Then somebody took it to a party, over on the other side of the world, the other side of the equator, where it was smashed and shoved in all directions. Some parts of it are still on the other side of the Atlantic, in Wales.

Now, we’ve left the drama of the Appalachian mountains behind, moving up the gentle St. Lawrence river. But everywhere I travel now, I am aware of geology. Even now, as I see a couple of kids playing on an enormous boulder by my campsite, I think “glacial erratic.” And then, in my mind, I am carried away from here and now, transported to a time when sheets of ice covered the land and dropped boulders the size of cars. When I was a child, I thought geology was dull, plate tectonics boring. But now I find it fascinating. It just takes a little imagination.

Hello everybody,

We’ve been lucky enough to find a spot on the street in Ottawa with a Wi-Fi connection, so we’ve been putting new stuff up on the website. Here’s what’s new.

We’ve been trying hard to keep up with our adventures. So far, we’ve got nearly all of our stories from Newfoundland up, three weeks after we left, and a few bits from other parts of Canada.

We’ve also been working on the photos: Now our Maine and New Brunswick photos are up and captioned. (Some day we’ll get a few of our Newfoundland pictures up too!)

And lastly, and probably most important, Margaret is doing a wonderful job of keeping the limericks up to date, having even put up one from Quebec!

Enjoy!
Barry

In 1497, Giovanni Caboto, known to most of us as John Cabot, landed in Bonavista, Newfoundland. Of course, it wasn’t Bonavista then. And back then, they didn’t have bikes, let alone The Big Bike.

We arrived in town at the same time as a yellow school bus, loaded with passengers from a small cruise ship. “The mayor has come out to greet you,” announced their amplified tour guide. “Here’s Mayor Betty.”

Each cruise ship tourist shook hands with the mayor, an attractive blonde lady in a red blouse with an elaborate gold chain around her neck. “That’s my chain of office,” she told the folks as she shook their hands and handed them a Bonavista lapel pin.

Barry and Dad and I attached ourselves to the end of the cruise ship line. That way, we got to shake Betty’s hand, too. I got a great picture of her with my Dad, who told her he’d met a lot of mayors, but none as attractive. My Dad’s a flirt, like me.

After dinner that evening, we drove back to town because we’d seen something unusual there: A bicycle with seats for 30 people. Known as “The Big Bike,” it’s used as a fundraiser for the Canadian Heart and Stroke Foundation. In exchange for fundraising, local groups were entitled to a 15-minute ride. This I had to see.

The bike has a footprint about the size of a big bus, with ten rows of three seats on a red metal frame. The front left seat has a steering wheel and, most importantly, a brake. In the rear is a fancy, high seat, without pedals, used for dignitaries. All the other seats are normal black bicycle seats, each with non-steering handlebars and a set of pedals.

When we arrived, there were lots of people milling about The Bike. We were on the fringes, taking pictures, when along came Mayor Betty, who remembered us. It turns out that as mayor, she gets to go on all the 15-minute rides.

Barry and I admitted that we’d love a chance to ride, and the next thing we knew, Betty had signed us up as volunteers, since one team needed more riders. After a group photo (they’ll wonder about those two strangers in the red hats later, I’m sure) we all clambered aboard.

Everyone else went for the back of the bike, with Betty, the driver, me, and Barry at the front. I was surprised, expecting the mayor to take the special seat at the rear, the one without pedals. “Oh no,” said Betty, “I have my hone pedals!” She’d recently lost about 100 pounds, partly by participating in every fundraiser walk, run, or bike ride in Newfoundland.

First, some instructions. The bike had lights, but no turn signals. When the driver wanted to turn left, he would shout over the PA system, “LEFT! ” and everyone on that side put their arm out. But not like a regular bike or a car: This was a special animated turn signal. Even now, I laugh my self silly at the thought of ten people flapping their thumbs, making “alligator hands,” and hollering “dinker-dinker-dinker.”

At 1900 pounds, the bike was heavy enough to give us all a workout on Bonavista’s hills. Fortunately, the CD sound system put us in the mood, with “Bad Moon Rising” ringing out from the speakers as we charged out of the parking lot. Our route was a loop with one nice downhill, and our pace was slow enough that neighborhood kids ran along beside us.

I was smiling and laughing the whole time, amazed at this crazy experience. When we coasted into the lot to let the next group ride, I could understand why Mayor Betty took advantage of the chance to ride every time. The Big Bike was a blast, and the ride, like our visit to Bonavista, was way too short.

Author’s note: You can learn more interesting things about Mayor Betty Fitzgerald by running a Google search on Bonavista Newfoundland Mayor Betty.

Today we were driving in the Gaspé Peninsula, and went by one more of the dozens of little roadside rest areas. Since this is way past the tourist season around here, they are all closed, but this one was better than most–there wasn’t a gate to lock, even if they did screw plywood over the doors to the washrooms. Considering this an invitation, we drove in and parked. We carried our picnic to the playground, enjoying the view of the Atlantic ocean on a brisk autumn afternoon. We let Prussia out of the van (on her leash), and Margaret was taken for a walk by the cat. Prussia lead her around the washroom building, walking along the railroad tie edge of the landscaping. A guy driving by on an ATV almost fell off when he saw what was going on.

Meanwhile, I was still in the playground, and I saw the slide. It was one of those enclosed plastic tube slides, and it made me think of the time that Prussia spent about twenty minutes absolutely fascinated by a small dry culvert. I walked up to where Margaret was walking the cat and said “I’ve go the urge to do something evil.” as I looked over at the slide. She started laughing. I went down the slide to make sure that it worked.

With much patience and a little coaxing, Margaret got Prussia near the top of the slide.

She was far more interested in trying to go under the platform and smell things, but our patience was limited. Finally Margaret picked her up and put her inside the slide. She started walking down, not too impressed with the momentous occasion. Margaret tells me she kept walking, then started to skid a little. She braced her paws as it got steeper, but she only slid faster, and Margaret let go of the leash. The next thing I knew, she slid by in a hurry and I just barely got this picture.

I took care of the important task that followed (picking up the end of the leash) and then got to record the next part of this adventure.

* I’m not sure–Is there even a Canadian Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals? I don’t know whether I should hope that they do exist or don’t exist.

Usually, when Prussia is unnerved, she’s pretty eager to get back to the safety of the Squid Wagon. But as I handed Margaret the leash, Prussia was just in a mood to continue her walk. Then again, she didn’t say, “Let’s do it again, Mom,” and head right back to top of the slide!

What exactly is the appeal of Tim Horton’s to Canadians? As one friend commented, “I don’t know what they put in the coffee, but it must be addictive!”

Since we crossed the Canadian border on September 1st, we’ve seen more Tim Horton’s than any other restaurant. Surprisingly, Subway is almost as ubiquitous, with MacDonalds, Wendy’s, and Burger King showing up occasionally. I laughed to see that in Quebec, KFC is actually PFK — Poulet Frites a la Kentucky!

One morning, with my Dad, we decided to try Tim Horton’s for a quick breakfast. The line stretched out the door. “What is this?” I quipped, “the line for the men’s room?” I was the only female customer, the rest being young men in plaid shirts.

The breakfast menu at Tim Horton’s would make an Atkins follower cringe. Barry and I could see no protein available, unless you count cream cheese on a bagel. The rest was donuts, muffins, fritters, and biscuits. The infamous coffee was available in several sizes, from small to unbelievable. The latter, called The Big Tim, was an insulated jug holding nearly two liters.

My glucose level spiked vicariously, watching Barry eat a Nanaimo bar. Dad ordered coffee and a muffin.

A few weeks later, Barry and I walked through a New Brunswick shopping mall early in the morning. A series of plastic tables were installed in front of Tim Horton’s, lined up side-by-side like a 30-foot banquet table. The customers were all men. Elderly fellows, not young ones in plaid this time. I could picture them there every morning, sharing war stories, hunched over their steaming styrofoam cups of coffee.

I’m glad my Dad made his own coffee while traveling with us. Had he drunk more than one cup of Tim Horton’s coffee, he might have become addicted. And then he would have to leave his warm, sunny home in Florida and move somewhere like Campbellton, New Brunswick to get his “fix.” Rain or shine, every morning, sharing stories with the geezers over that strange Canadian brew, Tim Horton’s coffee.

In the middle of the 20th century, Newfoundland was a backwards place. Europeans had begun settling there in the beginning of the 16th century, and generation after generation of their descendents hadn’t made too many changes.

Cod was the key to survival, and Newfoundlanders fished the Grand Banks, drying their salted catch on wooden flakes and packing it in barrels. The advent of refrigeration was bringing competition to the fishing grounds and centralizing the processing of the cod, but there was still plenty of fish out there.

There were no roads as we know them; people and goods moved by boat. Inland were only a few mining operations and some lumber camps that cut the small pine trees for pulp. No farming, either, unless you count kitchen gardens of cabbage, carrots, and that Newfoundland staple, the turnip. Scurvy was common.

One thing was uncommon, and that was cash. At the market, the day’s catch was tallied and exchanged for sugar, flour, cotton, tobacco. Sometimes the wives would buy on credit — a friend in Nova Scotia described the way they do this, even today. The minute the man slips his lines, his wife is headed into the local grocery store. Woe to the fellow who has a bad day fishing!

Into this pastoral picture came the U.S. government. At the time, Newfoundland was not even part of Canada; it was still a British colony. It was also the perfect stepping stone to Europe, where World War II was raging. Negotiations were quickly completed for 99-year leases on three pieces of land to be used as military bases. When the Americans arrived, they were in a tearing hurry to build barracks, airfields, and hangars. Locals, used to a slower pace, joked, “What’s their hurry? They’ve got 99 years!”

The expropriation of the land was a sad ordeal for the Newfoundlanders, who had no idea what hit them. Communities were broken up and people were given menial sums for their holdings. The amounts were so small that relocating was difficult, especially for older people who were just barely scratching out a living on the “Rock” anyway. But there was a positive side to it: The Americans brought a huge influx of money to the region, and young men and women flocked to the bases for jobs.

It would change a lot of lives and split up families. At a restaurant in Trepassey, we met Mary, a widow from New York traveling with her son and his wife. Their clothes and accents seemed very American. But Mary was born and raised on the eastern shore of Newfoundland’s Avalon peninsula, part of a large family. In the mid-50’s, she and two of her siblings had the chance to work on the Navy base. That’s where she met her husband, an American serviceman. She’s been back a few times, but it’s been over 18 years since her last visit. Newfoundland is not her home any more.

It’s a common story, and there are thousands of women like her. They and their husbands are returning to Newfoundland now, as tourists in their retirement years. On the ferry from Nova Scotia, we met a couple of fellows who were stationed on the base in the 1940’s. Their group numbered over 20, all retired military men. For many, it was their first visit since they were stationed in Newfoundland over 50 years ago.

Down the road, in Fermeuse, we stopped at a medium-sized grocery with attached restaurant and gas station. I stuck my head in the office. “Are you Jerome? Your sister, Mary, said to stop in and say hello.”

The elderly man at the desk looked surprised. “Oh, do you know my sister from the States?”

“No,” I replied, “we just met her two days ago, at the restaurant in Trepassey!”

Unlike his sisters, Jerome never worked on the base and never left home. His Newfoundland accent is thick, full of “dis” and “dat” and extra s’s on the ends of verbs. He invited us in for a cup of coffee, and we sat in the restaurant (closed for the season) overlooking the harbor.

The store, which Jerome owns with his son, looks to be a profitable operation now. But he admits that the 90’s were “a bad time.” In 1992, the Canadian government closed down the cod fishery, leaving many fishermen without a livelihood. Jerome seemed more sad than bitter. “You can’t even go pleasure fishing now. If I wants a piece of cod, I have to buy it.” I tried to imagine the impact of this for people who ate fish at almost every meal. “Everybody eats chicken now, instead of fish,” he said.

Two years after this fatal blow to the codfishing industry, the Americans left. There were many years to go on those 99-year leases, but nobody needed a stepping-stone to Europe any more. They closed the three bases, leaving acres of abandoned buildings and crumbling concrete runways. One portion of Stephenville looked like a ghost town, every pane of glass broken, weeds growing through cracks in the pavement, graffiti unchecked.

Newfoundlanders are unhappy about the closure of the codfishing industry, but we didn’t hear any negative comments about the Americans. As a matter of fact, we talked with a couple of people who think Confederation with Canada in 1949 was a mistake. “We shouldn’t have gone with Canada,” several of them told me, “We should have gone with the Americans.”

What a funny thought: Newfoundland as the 51st state? I guess in this day and age, it’s nice to know somebody still likes us.